By Rowland-Timi Olonishuwa

My first exposure to Nupe people was through books; unpalatable stories of how they waged ruthless wars.

So you would understand my hesitation when my immediate boss, the News Editor of The Herald, Evangelist Oluwole Osundeyi told me I’d be covering the just concluded Patigi regatta and would have to sleep over.

However, my reluctance began to thaw when I got in touch with Alhaji Nma Ibrahim, who would be my host and guide in Patigi. A likable and very humble man, Alhaji Nma Ibrahim, first took me to his home in Oke-Oyi and insisted I take a bottle of soft drink before we commenced on our journey.

The actual journey to Patigi was eventful and an eye opener to what I would encounter in Patigi; throughout the journey and during my stay in Patigi, my host and indeed everyone, treated me as if I was a sort of tin god.

We took off around 3:45pm and as my host’s younger brother sped off on the high way I settled down in the front seat to enjoy a good nap. Alhaji Ibrahim and another relative occupied the back seat.

We had long left Oke-Oyi behind when we realized that the car was over heating and stopped to have a look. My host and his brother also seized the opportunity to observe the Asri prayer.

Unfortunately, when we were set to move another fault developed; a disturbing noise in the engine signaled that all was not well. Going back to Ilorin was out of the question so we trudged ahead, albeit slowly. It was not until we got to Bokungi that we actually got to know how bad the situation was.

The mechanic, after a brief check, told us a disc in the engine was faulty and that it might seriously affect that part of the car if care is not taken. Yet, in all these things my host, his brothers and myself were not perturbed; instead we decided to put our hope in God and continue with the journey. The immediate danger of what could have happened if the engine broke down was lost on us as we slowly continued our journey.

The real challenge came when we got to Gbugbu. We had stopped to buy snacks and fruits and were just taking off when the heavens opened and the rain began to drizzle. It was already getting dark and the road was bad, coupled with the fact that the car was not in good condition. The steady build-up of the rain added to our challenge yet we were unperturbed.

To take our minds off the challenges at hand, the discussion in the car moved from Nupe to English language and we touched on almost every topic possible; politics, religion and even tourism. At last, we got to Bologi and my host announced that the next town is Patigi.

My first sight of Patigi town was one of melancholy, all thanks to the power people. As usual, they had struck and there were only dots of light from those who could afford it. As we rose onto the last hill, the rest of the town lay in total darkness.

But my host wouldn’t be disturbed, “don’t worry, we would have to buy some fuel and put on the generator when we got home,” he assured me. But before then we had to go see the Emir, the Etsu Patigi. My host had a message from a commissioner to deliver to him.

At the Etsu’s palace, I found myself staring at tradition. The palace is definitely the center of attraction as everyone, both young and old, were there.

As we waited for our turn to see the Etsu, I noticed one interesting trait among the Nupes-respect for the elderly. Everyone squats to greet the elderly. And there is this communal way of eating together, an act which civilization is gradually eroding from people in the urban areas.

Later in the night when we had got home and eaten, my host didn’t forget to fulfill his promise. So we had electricity to recharge our phone batteries and I called home. I also had to call my boss who had been calling to know our every step throughout the journey to Patigi.

And oh! I won’t forget the dinner. I was served a replica of the Yoruba’s Amala but according to my host it was made of guinea corn and the soup was a sort of pepper soup. Thinking back now I could swear that the soup contained more than three large fishes. My host left me to deal with the larger part and when I declined he wasn’t too happy. He insisted until I had to give in and to justify his stance he said “we work hard and we eat well here o.”

A colleague and friend had earlier warned me about how ferocious the mosquitoes in Patigi could be but thankfully when I hit the bed I switched off totally and it was not until daybreak before I opened my eyes to the sound of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer.

It was not until daybreak before I met my first real exciting friend in Patigi, Ibrahim nicknamed Alhaji. He came in shyly at first trying to test my response, then perceiving a positive attitude he became bold. Language was not a barrier as Ibrahim and myself gladly made use of signs and gestures to communicate.

For the remaining hours I spent in the house before going for the regatta, Ibrahim ensured it was exciting as he didn’t tired inspecting my gadgets and making me operate them to his delight.

The regatta itself was a wonder. The finery, colours, pomp and pageantry were dazzling and went a long way to define the efforts and sweat of the organizing committee.

The festival kicked off on an impressive note as ambassadors of Nupe-speaking towns gaily trooped into the venue of the festival. As early as 9am, beautifully decorated boats and canoes, both manual and powered, had begun to drift onto the River Niger waiting for the commencement of the festival.

The arrival of the royal fathers helped lighten the already excited atmosphere. The Estu Nupe who also doubled as the chairman, Niger state council of Emirs and chiefs, Alhaji Yahaya Abubakar and his host, the Estu Patigi, Alhaji Ibrahim Chatta Umar, who is also the vice chairman, Kwara state council of Emirs and traditional chiefs led other royal fathers to the festival amidst royal pomp and pageantry.

The state governor, Alhaji Abdulfatai Ahmed, his deputy, Elder Peter Kisira and other top government functionaries were among top dignitaries that graced the festival.
The festival came to an abrupt end late in the afternoon due to a misunderstanding between two villages leading to the hurried departure of the royal fathers.